Routes & Rides

Carrying on through France and into Spain, we were glad to be clear of the toll roads. The motorways were no longer a burden as the stunning scenery began to open up, winding through rolling hills and deep valleys. We arrived in Tarifa and spent the night, ready to catch the ferry to Tangier the following morning.

We took the N23 out of Chefchaouen and headed towards Fez. The roads and views were spectacular once again, packed with winding bends and switchbacks. Upon arriving in Fez, the traffic was intense. While stopped at some traffic lights, a local on a moped pulled up alongside us, recommended a hotel, and asked us to follow him through the chaos. I’ll admit it crossed my mind that this could be a scam... but how wrong I was! He introduced us to the owner—a true gentleman who had built the stunning hotel himself—and welcomed us like family.

With our sights set on Merzouga and our desert camp, we headed out bright and early. The route took us through the breathtaking Dades Gorge—a massive canyon carved deep into the bedrock. After passing through Tinghir, the landscape changed dramatically, flattening out into vast, sandy plains that let us know we were finally closing in on the desert.

Arriving at our base camp in Merzouga, we were greeted by our host and served a traditional tagine. We then saddled up on camels and headed out to our desert camp by jeep. The night in the Sahara was unforgettable; the skies were perfectly clear with zero light pollution, letting us see the stars in vivid detail while sitting on a sand dune enjoying a glass of red wine. The following day, we explored the dunes on quad bikes—an amazing experience and an absolute must-do.

It was time to start making our way back north. We headed toward Rabat on the coast with no fixed route in mind, letting the Calimoto app choose the 'super twisty' option. What a decision that turned out to be! The roads and views were spectacular; every corner revealed a new breathtaking vista.

We got a bit carried away enjoying the riding, and before we knew it, darkness set in. Realizing we wouldn't make it to Rabat, we checked our phones for nearby accommodation, only to find the nearest hotel was over two hours away. I consulted Google Maps and spotted a bed symbol marked 'Refuge' just 30 minutes away. We set the navigation and rode out.

The tarmac quickly disappeared as we climbed a remote mountain pass in the pitch dark. After 30 minutes, the GPS announced we had arrived at our destination, but we were surrounded by total darkness. Scanning the area, I caught a faint light higher up the mountain. I rode up the track and was greeted at the door by a local family. When I asked if this was the refuge, they warmly welcomed us inside. What a relief—by this time it was 10:30 pm. They made us fresh coffee and cooked us a fantastic hot meal; nothing was too much trouble. It wasn't until we woke up the next morning and looked outside that we realized just how high up in the mountains we actually were. This stay was the absolute highlight of our trip. I cannot thank our host and his family enough—if it weren’t for them, we would have been wild camping in the freezing mountains. I highly recommend staying at the Refuge Ait Mhammed, but make sure to arrive before dark, and be prepared for some off-road riding!

We took a scenic route that combined coastal roads and inland tracks, allowing us to take in a great mix of landscapes over the 160-mile journey. We arrived at the Tangier port with plenty of time to spare and easily caught an early ferry. After arriving at the port in Tarifa, Spain, we kept riding through the evening until we reached Medina Sidonia, where we decided to stop for the night.

Headed north toward Calais, passing Bordeaux, Le Mans, and Rouen before arriving back at the Eurotunnel terminal after a 555-mile stint and 8.5 hours in the saddle. We spent the night just outside Calais, boarded the train the following morning, and made the final run home.

What an amazing trip—the opportunity of a lifetime and an adventure I will never forget. Morocco is an incredible country; the people are unbelievably friendly, and they truly cannot do enough to help you.